Figure 1.--Here we see two unidentified brothers wearing single-breasted jackets with small, high-set lapels. The portrait is undated, but the mount suggests the early 1900s decade. The photgraphic studio was Willis in Crawfordsville, Indiana. Also note the detachable collars.

The lapel was the destinguising feature of these suits and subject to endless variation. Sack suits generally had "V" fronts with lapels, but there were some exceptions. Jacket lapels are folded flaps of cloth on the front of a jacket or coat. They are mostly found on formal clothing like suit jackets. The other major garment with lapelds is overcoats. Lapels are formed by folding over the front edges of the jacket and sewing them to the collar which is an extra piece of fabric around the back of the neck. The purpose of the lapel is entirely stylistic. It helped set off the V" front opening to expose long neckwear ans vests (waistcoasts). Lapels were done in three principal types: 1) notched, 2) peaked and 3) shawl. Notched lapelswere by far the most common. Peaked lapels were more are more formal, and mostly used on double breasted jackets. Shawl lapels might be used for dinner jackets. You rarely see boys with them. Lapels often had button holes for boutonnière. (Boutonnière is a floral decoration worn by men. The word is derived from from the French boutonnière meaning button hole.) Suit lapels have varied greatly over time, both the placement and width. We see late-19th century and early-20th century bjackets with small lapels set very high up on the jacket. We see these high-set lapels at the turn-of-the 20th century. A good examole is Maine boy Charles Bullock at the turn of the 20th centurty, He looks to be about 14 years old. Lels also vsrierd ikn sdize. Lapels began growing in size during the 1900s decade. Gradually the lapels migrated to extend further down the jacket, The lapels have since increased in sized and length. We have noted both narrow and wide lapels as fashion trends swung back and forth. But the l;zpoels never returned to uch a high location on the jacket. The length of the lapels have also varied, but we have not yet yet noted a return to the smnsll, high-placed lapels.

Created: 1:05 AM 11/30/2009
Last updated: 1:05 AM 11/30/2009