Figure 1.--This cabinet card portrait shows an unidentified boy. He looks about 13 years old. Note how snall the jacket lapels are and how high up they re placed. The portrait was taken by C. H. Scofield on 39 Columbia St. in Utica, New York. The portrait is undated, but looks to have been taken in the 1880s. Notice the five buttoins.

Older boys' wore sack suit jackets. There were a range of variations in the styling of these jackets. Here we are discussing the construction, not decoration. Jackets could be quite plain. The lapel was the destinguising feature of these suits. Sack suits generally had "V" fronts with lapels, but there were some exceptions. These lapels have varied greatly over time, both the placement and width. We see some 19th century jackets with small lapels set very high. The lapels have since increased in sized and length. We have noted both narrow and wide lapels. While the lapels are the most prominant features, there are other featurs such as shoulders, pockets, both breast and side hip pockets. The pockets differed in size, placement, and detailing. The length of the jackets also varied. We also see different cuts of the bottom hem. Some were rounded like cut-away jackets. Other jackets were cut straight across at the hem. There were also tightly fitting jackets, including some taken in at the mid section. Others had more of a loose, baggy cut. There were also differences in the back of the hacker, although this is more difficutvto assess in the photographic record.

Lapel

The lapel was the destinguising feature of these suits and subject to endless variation. Sack suits generally had "V" fronts with lapels, but there were some exceptions. Jacket lapels are folded flaps of cloth on the front of a jacket or coat. They are mostly found on formal clothing like suit jackets. The other major garment with lapelds is ivercoats. Lapels are formed by folding over the front edges of the jacket and sewing them to the collar which is an extra piece of fabric around the back of the neck. The purpose of the lapel is entirely stylistic. It helped set off the V" front opening to expose long neckwear ans vests (waistcoasts). Lapels were done in three principal types: 1) notched, 2) peaked and 3) shawl. Notched lapelswere by far the most common. Peaked lapels were more are more formal, and mostly used on double breasted jackets. Shawl lapels might be used for dinner jackets. You rarely see boys with them. Lapels often had button holes for boutonni�re. (Boutonni�re is a floral decoration worn by men. The word is derived from from the French boutonni�remeaning button hole.) Suit lapels have varied greatly over time, both the placement and width. We see late-19th century jackets with small lapels set very high up on the jacket. We see these high-set lapels at the turn-of-the 20th centurym but the lapels began growing in size during the 1900s decade. Gradually the lapels migrated to extend further fown the jacket, The lapels have since increased in sized and length. We have noted both narrow and wide lapels as fashion trends swung back and forth. The length of the lapels have also varied, but we have not yet yet noted a return to the smnsll, high-placed lapels.

Shoulders

Buttons

The number of buttons on sack suits jackets have varied over time. Here we see a boy in the late-19h century with five buttons on a single-breasted jacket. Gradually in the 20th century, three buttons became standard. Some blazers had only two buttods.

Pockets

While the lapels are the most prominant features, there are other featurs such as shoulders, pockets, both breast and side hip pockets. The pockets differed in size, placement, and detailing.

Length

The length of the jackets also varied. <>br>

Bottom Hem

We also see different cuts of the bottom hem. Some were rounded like cut-away jackets. Other jackets were cut straight across at the hem.

Fit

There were also tightly fitting jackets, including some taken in at the mid section. Others had more of a loose, baggy cut.

Back

There were also differences in the back of the hacker, although this is more difficutvto assess in the photographic record.

Created: 12:19 AM 1/26/2009
Last updated: 3:00 AM 12/29/2009