United States Boys' Suits: Pants Chronology--The 1900s


Figure 1.--American boys commonly wore straight-leg knee pants suits for several decades. Knee pants suits were the standard during the 1900s. Here we see a boy about 13 years old wearing a knee pants suit for his confirmation in 1905. Notice the creases in the knee pants.

Straight leg knee pants were commonly worn by American boys, especially in the late-1890s. At the turn-of-the 20th century, leg knee pants were the standard pants types for boys and we see teenagers weating them hivh was not the case before the 1890s. Terminology varied somewhat, but we mostly notice knee pants during the 1900s. They even became common in rural areas. We see boys of all ages wearing them, including teenagers. The knee pants commonly had buttons for attaching suspenders. Belt loops were not very common. The cut was fairly standard at knee length. There were various styles of jackets, but the knee pants were fairly standard. We do not yet have much information on pockets. Buttons were used at the fly. Most knee pants had the three button trim at the leg hem. The photographic record is somewhat varied because boys tended to grow, especially teenagers. The age boys switched to long pants varied from family to family. Most older teens wore long pants suits, but we even see some older teens wearing knee pants. Virtually all pre-teens wore knee pants suits. This continued to be the case throughout the decade. We also see knickers, but they were not as popular, especially at the beginning and mid-decade. This began to change by the end of the decade. Knickers gradually became more important in the 1900s and by the end of the decade, many boys were knickers rather than knee pants. Boys almost always wore both knee pants and knickers with long stockings. Most boys wore black long stockings, regardless of suit color, but there was some variation. Some boys during the summer went barefoot evenwhen wearing suits. This was most common in the South.

Popularity

Straight leg knee pants were commonly worn by American boys, especially in the late-1890s. At the turn-of-the 20th century, leg knee pants were the standard pants types for boys.

Age

We see boys of all ages wearing knee pants suits in the 1900s. Knee pants suits were standard for boys. This can clearly be seen in the photogrphic record. as well as mail order catalogs. School portaits are an especilly good way of assessing age trends. They commonly show like age groups and youncan assesses the prevalene of various garnents and fashion trends. The issue is somewhat complicated after primary (elementary) school. Most children did not continue their educatioin after primary school. Thus social class factors or at play in secondary schools. At the turn-of the 20th century we also see teenagers wearing knee pants which was not the case before the 1890s. This was a process begun in the 1890s, especially during the second half of the decade. We now see boys of all ages wearing them, including teenagers. Younger boys might wear bloomer knicker with tunic suits. Virtually all boys, however, wearing sack lapel suits wore them with straight-leg knee pants. The age boys switched to long pants varied from family to family. Most older teens wore long pants suits, but we even see some older teens wearing knee pants. Virtually all pre-teens wore knee pants suits. This continued to be the case throughout the decade until knickers begin to appear.

Terminology

Terminology varied somewhat, but we mostly notice knee pants during the 1900s.

Demographics

Knee pants were at first a fashionable style for city biys from fashionable city families. Gradually in the 19th century they bcome increasingly popular, including in small times and rural areas. Knee panrs by th 1900s were even common in rural areas although age trends were alittle differnt. At the end if tho decade we befin to see boys wearing verall in rural areas. Yjis development can clrarly be seen in the photographic record, especially school portraits. Many of the boys wearing overalls woul have worn suits, including ome knee pants suits in the 1890s.

Suspension

The primary method of pants suspension, both with and without suit jackets was susonders. This is not always aooarent in the photographic recird because suit jackets civer up the suspenders. The knee pants commonly had buttons for attaching suspenders. Belt loops were not very common.

Length

The cut of pants during the 1900s was fairly standard at knee length. This had grdually rissen during the late-19thbcentury. We see some knee pants cut just below the knee, but kne-length is much more commin in the photographic record. We no longer see the longer cuts that were fairly standard in the 19th century, epeciall before the 1890s. This knee-length cut was an across the board length. Boys of all ages wore knee pants cut at the same length. The photographic record is somewhat varied because boys tended to grow, especially teenagers thus mother tended to buy suits in a slightly larger style than might be seen a s a perfect fit.

Jackets

There were various styles of jackets, both single-and double breasted suits. Norfolk suits are not nearly as common as they were in the 1910s. Regardless of the jacket type, but the knee pants were fairly standard. The style of jacket seems independent of the type of pants worn.

Pockets

We do not yet have much information on pants pockets. These are features unlike oin the kackets that are difficult to make out from the pootographic record which is our primary source of infimation

Buttons

Buttons were used at the fly. Most knee pants had the three button trim at the leg hem.

Knickers

We also see knickers, but they were not as popular, especially at the beginning oand mid-decade. This began to change by the end of the decade. Knickers gradually became more important in the 1900s and by the end of the decade, many boys were knickers rather than knee pants.

Hosiery

Boys almost always wore both knee pants and knickers with long stockings. Most boys wore black long stockings, regardless of suit color, but there was some variation. This is difficult to tell from the photographic record, but here period mail order catalogs are helpful. As the sfut began to knickers at the enbd of the decade. the long stockings conventions continued.

Footwear

Boys mostly wore high-top shoes in the 1900s. This was the case both with and without suits. It was common for boys to go barefoot duing the summer, esoecially iun rural areas and small towns. Some boys during the summer went barefoot evenwhen wearing suits. This was most common in the South. For some reason this seems very commoin in the 1900s. We see it to a lesser extent in the 1890s and 1910s, but it was very rare in earlier and subsequent decades. We have no idea why all of a sudden in the 1900s so many boys appeared barefoot for formal portraits. We think changes in photography were a factot. More itenerant photographers were taking portaits at ht homes. We also see a more portaits by low budger photographers at places like state fair. You can tell by the backdrop and setting that the studio was not at ell established concern. Dressed up barefoot boys are much lss common in portraits taken in well-established studios.







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Created: 8:19 AM 8/6/2010
Last updated: 5:49 PM 4/3/2014