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We have noted several different popular patterns/weaves for boys' suits. Unlike dreses, suits were not done in prints, but there were many different patterns done as weaves. Unlike prints. weaves involved texture in the patterning. The mostly easily obseveable pattern weaves were checks, herringbone, houndstooth, plaids/tartans, stripes. These involved using different colors, but herringbone which might be done with just one color. Some parrens are difficult to see such as hrringbone because they did not involve clearly observable color differences. And of course there were flat or plain suits without patterns. Unfortunaltly we can not tell much about the colors involved, but we can make out the patterns. These are at least the patterns that can be noted in portrait photography. Here our HBC coverage is somewhat compromised by the fact that HBC relies heavily on the photographic record and unless tge pattern is bold, they do not display well in phoographs unles they are closeups. HBC does not rely exlusively on the photographic record, but it is certainly our primary source of information. The bold pattens are the most easily observeable. Patterns were very common in the 19th century, but many were muted patterns used in dark suits that do not display well. Muted plaids were commonly but not always used in kilt suits. A good example is Fred Wulf, we think in the 1880s.
Checks wee one of the most bold patterns and thus realtively wasily to spot. We have foubnd relarively few examples in the photographic record. We are not sure if this accurarely reflects the popularity of the pattern or if it mothers were less likely to cjose it for boys.
We are not entirely sure what to call this pattern. We might call it a cross hatch pattern. But we don't see that term being used in the litany of check patterns. We do see the term 'glen plaid' or 'Prince of Wales check' (referring to King Edward VII a notable close horse). The pattern consisdts of bands of closely spaced lines which criss-cross. At the center of these crosses sits a square of houndstooth, which may be optional. This is a very common pattern used in suits. It can be a very conservative look if the colors are muted, but can be very bold/loud if the colors are stronger. While the black and white photography of the day can not reveal color, it can show very clearly how loud the pattern was.
Herringbone is a chevron-like weave or patterning, named so as it resembles the bone structure of a herring. The herring fishery was very important in Britain during the 19th century when this weave was developed. It is typically comprised of black and another colour � most commonly brown, blue, grey, or white. In modern times more color variations developed. Herringbone is most commonly found today as the weave on casual sportcoats or blazers.
Houndstooth is a staggered patterning that resembles skewed diamonds, pinwheels, or as the name suggests, the tooth of a hound. This was in the 19th century usually presented in the motif as black pinwheels on a field of white fabric. Modern usage is more likely to involve color.
We also do not notice any examples of stripe suiys. This includes both bold stripe and pin stripes.
We think that trrtans/plaids wee among the most common ptterns, but as they were often done in dark muted colors they do not show well in the photographic record. Patterns were very common in the 19th century, but many were muted patterns used in dark suits that do not display well. Muted plaids were commonly but not always used in kilt suits. A good example is Fred Wulf, we think in the 1880s.
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