Figure 1.--Here are the long stockings offered by Wards in the 1943-44 Fall-Winter catalog. There are eight different ones to choose from. Also notice the anklets for other children. |
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Wards in their Fall and Winter catalog for 1943-44 advertised a surprising array of long stockings for boys and girls, aged 3 to 10, in conjunction with anklets in several different colors. The variety of styles at the height of World War II just before long stockings for children almost totally died out in the United States is somewhat unexpected, especially since the same catalog totally omits hose supporters and garter waists, the garments that would be necessary to hold such stockings in place. The wartime shortage of elastic may account for the absence of garters and garter waists in 1943-44 although hose supporters for women and elastic suspenders for men were readily available at the time, so the evidence of how prevalent long stockings were for children seems somewhat contradictory.
Although the word "consumerism" has a modern ring, it was personal concern for an early consumer movement, the "National Grange of the Patrons of Husbandry," That inspired a young traveling salesman named Aaron Montgomery Ward to start the world's first general merchandise mail-order company in 1872. Aaron Montgomery Ward was born on February 17, 1844, in Chatham, New Jersey, to a family whose forebears had served as officers in the French and Indian Wars as well as in the American Revolution. Looking for something more compatible, Monty left home and followed the river to Lake Michigan and the town of St. Joseph, county seat and market for outlying fruit orchards. Chicago was the center of the wholesale dry goods trade and in the 1860s Ward joined the leading dry goods house, Field Palmer & Leiter. As a retailer, Potter Palmer had previously built a reputation for fair dealing. Ward absorbed these principles while working as a clerk for $5. The Chicago City Directories for 1868 through 1870 listed Ward as a salesman for Wills, Greg & Co. and later for Stetthauers & Wineman, both dry goods houses. In 1870, after canvassing territory in Illinois, Iowa, Missouri, Ward was again footloose. The plan shaping in Ward's mind was to buy goods at low cost for cash. By eliminating intermediaries, with their markups and commissions, and cutting selling costs to the bone, he could offer goods to people, however remote, at appealing prices - for cash. Since its founding in 1872, the company has literally "grown up with America" and has had a major impact on the shopping habits of a nation of consumers. Montgomery Ward & Co. discontinued its catalog operations in 1985 as part of its restructuring effort to change itself into a modern, competitive chain of value-driven specialty stores, a move which for a time saved the company. week.
We notice major fashion changes in America during the early 1940s. The variety of styles at the height of World War II just before long stockings for children almost totally died out in the United States is somewhat unexpected.
The range of long stockings offered is interesting because the same catalog totally omits hose supporters and garter waists, the garments that would be necessary to hold such stockings in place. The wartime shortage of elastic may account for the absence of garters and garter waists in 1943-44 although hose supporters for women and elastic suspenders for men were readily available at the time, so the evidence of how prevalent long stockings were for children seems somewhat contradictory. Knickers are also absent from this catalog, and there is a corresponding paucity of the sporty, patterned knee socks that boys usually wore with knickers, although a few knee socks, a few called "golf socks" (suggesting knickers) are shown on a different page, apparently designed for use by girls or by younger boys wearing shorts. A few of these are in solid colors. Evidently 1943-44 was a transitional year. No more knickers to be seen for sale and no hose supporters on offer--and yet long stockings continued to be sold with a large number of options.
The Wards catalog gives us one clue--namely that long stockings are aimed only at children of 10 or younger. In earlier catalogs, children's long stockings seem to have had a wider age range.
A was not at first what the inset illistration in the image here is ment to convey. Thgen we ealized that it refers to the button-on long stockings (item y only). It looks to be an early version of tights. This is the final kind of long stockings shown--the one at the extreme right of the picture with the
button-holes. The little inset drawing shows how the button-on stockings are attached to an underwaist. The child wearing button-on stockings doesn't need supporters because he can fasten the stockings directly onto the waist buttons on an underwaist or waist union suit. I discuss this issue in the commentary on that particular offering--the final option for the buyer.
Wards in their Fall and Winter catalog for 1943-44 advertised a surprising array of long stockings for boys and girls, aged 3 to 10, in conjunction with anklets in several different colors. The heading was, "Long Hose and Anklets for children ages 3 to 10. Colorful Novelties, True Rib-to-toe and Part Wool Stockings."
The anklets are located at the bottom of the bottom of illustration (figure 1). They were labeled, "P. Dainty Anklets designed for small children." The Wards ad copy read, "Very fine gauge knit, of good quality Cotton that feels soft on ther
feet. Solid colors with assorted delicate patterns in gay colors on the cuffs. For infants and wee toddler's socks, see Page 373. See older girls anklets on Page 332-333. Colors: Pink, Red, Beige, White, Med. Blue. Sizes 6 1/2, 7, 7 1/2, 8, 8 1/2. Ship wt. 3 oz. 14 cents pr. 30 B 236--State size and color. 3 pars 40 c." The anklets here were for younger children. There were also anklets for older girls on another page.
Here are the long stockings offered.
The Wards ad copy read, "with 1 x 1 ribbed legs, plain knit feet. Slightly heavier than hose described below. Transfer from rib to plain
knit is done by hand, so there's no uncomfortable seam around the ankle. Seamless foot is sturdily reinforced. Colors: Light Tan, Med. Tan. Sizes 6, 6 1/2, 7, 7 1/2, 8, 8 1/2, 9. Ship. wt. 3 oz. 25 c. pair. 30 B 308--State size and color. 3 pairs, 72 c."
The Wards ad copy read, "broad 7 x 1 Derby rib is shown
above; fine, 1 x 1 rib looks like "T". Both rib-to-toe knit, fit
better than hose above. Seamless feet. Colors: Light Tan, Medium Tan,
Black. Sizes: 6, 6 1/2, 7, 7 1/2, 8, 8 1/2, 9, 9 1/2. Ship. wt. pair 3
oz. Please state size and color. 20 B 301 Broad Derby Rib (shown) 25 c.
pr. 30 B 300--Fine Rib (resembles T) 3 prs. 72 c."
The Wards ad copy read, "in a fine 1 x 1 rib for dress-up
occasions. Stretchy ribbed-to-toe knit fits better than other type rib
knit. double soles and reinforced heel and toe, seamless foot, add to
durability, greater comfort. Extra long length stockings [so that
supporters won't show under short pants and skirts}. Ship. wt. pair 4
oz. Colors: Light Tan, Med Tan, White. Sizes: 6, 6 1/2, 7, 7 1/2, 8, 8
1/2, 9, 9 1/2. 29 cents, pr. 30 B 323--State size and color. 3 pairs,
85 c."
The Ward's ad copy read, "Strong two-ply Cotton in 7 x 2
rib-to-toe knit. Twice as heavy yarn is knit into the top to below-knee
level . . . looks like rest of stocking, but resists wear and holes
that come from falls or playing on the floor. [This stocking seems
especially suitable for boys because of the rougher wear they give
hosiery.] Ship. wt. 4 oz. Colors: Light Tan, Med Tan, Black. Sizes: 6,
6 1/2, 7, 7, 1/2, 8, 8 1/2, 9, 9 1/2. 33 c. pr. 30 B 380--State size
and color. 3 pairs 94 c."
The Wards's ad copy read, "Attractive winter wear. 1 x 1 rib-to-toe. Reinforced, seamless feet. Ship. wt. 3 oz. Sizes: 6, 6 1/2, 7, 7 1/2, 8, 8 1/2, 9, 9 1/2. 30 B 318--Cotton, Heather colors: 28 c. pr. Tan, Gray, Brown. State size, color. 3 prs. 81 c. 30 B 377--New Wool. 12%, balance Cotton and Rayon. Heather colors. 46 c. pr. Light Tan, Med. Tan. State size, color. 2 prs. 88 c."
The Ward's ad copy read, "Distinctive rib-effect
in good light weight Cotton with confortable seamless feet. For younger
girls who like the same smart hosiery as big sister. (Older girls will
find the hose on Page 334 proportioned for them.) Bright colors for
sports wear, two flesh tones for every day. For better fit see Better
and Best qualities below. Colors: Beige, Med. Blue, Red, Suntan. Sizes
7, 7 1/2, 8, 8 1/2, 9, 9 1/2, 10. Ship. wt. 4 oz. 29c pair. 30 B 375.
Be sure to state size and color. 3 prs. 85 c." [HBC note: In the U.S. boys almost
never wore brightly colored long stockings during the period from about
1910 to 1945, although in Canada, they sometimes did.]
The Ward's ad copy read, "Colorful Novelty Knit stockings. True
rib-to-toe won't bunch at ankles. Extra long length; seamless feet.
Sizes 6 1/2, 7, 7 1/2, 8, 8. Ship. wt. pair 4 oz. Please state size
and color. 30 B 384--Better Quality med. wt. Cotton. 39 c. pair.
Colors: Red, Med. Blue, Natural Tan, Beige. 3 prs. $1.12. 30 B 389 Best
Quality mercerized Cotton looks lovelier: finer texture, lighter, more
sheer. 47 c. pr. Colors: Red, Royal Blue, Green, Tan, Beige. 2 pairs 90
c."
The Ward's ad copy read, "are adjustable to 3 lengths (3 rows
of buttonholes). Keeps entire leg covered, makes garters unnecessary.
Strong, lustrous Rayon plated over Cotton. Fine rib leg, plain knit
feet. Mercerized cotton reinforces heel and toe. How to adjust
directions are included with each pair. [HBC note: The buttonholes are
fastened at the correct level to buttons on an underwaist or waist
union suit, thus doing away with pin-on hose supporters. Button-on
long stockings seem to have had a very brief sales life. Even with
three buttonholes for adjustment, they tended to wrinkle and bag on the
legs and didn't give the smooth appearance of long stockings held up by
the traditional elastic supporters.] Colors: Light Tan, Medium Tan,
White. Sizes: 6, 6 1/2, 7, 7 1/2, 8, 8 1/2, 9, 9 1/2. Ship. wt. 4 oz.
47 c. pair. 30 B 315--Be sure to state size and color. 2 pairs, 90
cents." The insert illustration applies to this item only. We first notice these button-on stockings in 1939.
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