Figure 1.--This Australian boy in the 1950s wears a blue closed-front shirt. I am not sure about the sleeves. It may be a long-sleeve shirt with the sleeves rolled up. Notice the different color trim on the from and pocket.

The closed-front shirt was widely worn by Australian boys at state schools during the mid-20th centurt, but the style was widely worn by working men in rural areas during the late 19th century. It is thus a style of some historical significance.

Origins

Elsewhere in HBC we have referred to these as rugby-style shirts. HBC had assumed that the style was simply an Australian version of the rugby-style shirts worn in England at the same time. An Australian reader reports, however, that the closed-front style was derived from the uniform of ANZAC mounted calvary during World War I. This is one of many examples of military styles influencing boys clothing. The style, however, pre-dates World War I and was probably imported from India (which included Pakistan) for gold miners furing the 1880s. Traded by camel train to remote cattle stations and homesteads. (In America a homstead means a farm worked primarily by a family, in Australian it seems to mean a ranch.) It was the main style of shirt worn by stockmen and drovers. The Australian shorts had attached collars while comparablde English shirts had detachable collars. For many years this closed front style shirt was widely worn by Australian boys to school.

Chronology

I am not positive when Australian school boys began wearing closed-front shirts, but given the origins, you might think it was in the 1920s. An Australian HBC reader reports, "I have photos of myself wearing one of these in 1948. Also my brother, who was 14 years old at the time. They were a sort of pale grey flannel. Old school photos show this style being worn in schools as far back as the 1880s. They were also worn in the United States during that time. If you ever get to see "Dr. Quinn, Medicine Woman" on TV (The series has excellent costumes) you'll see they were wearing them then. Custer was wearing one when he died at the battle of the little big horn--his wife sewed it for him, and it was based on the New York Fireman's uniform. I suspect the style was worn by gold miners. It goes back a long way." HBC can not yet conform this information about the United States. We have not noted it in old photographs. HBC has in fact no information concerning the origins of the rugby-style shirt in England. It seems likely that the English and Australian closed-front shirts have common origins. The closed-front shirt began to decline in popularity in the 1960s and by the 1970s was being replaced by traditionally-styled open-front shirts as well as knits and polo shirts.

Classic Style

Closed front meaning a half front placket stopping about level with the base of the pocket. Some had flap button pockets. HBC notes that these shirts only have buttons at the top and are pulled over and then buttoned up. This style of shirt is according to a HBC reader a "icon" symbol in Australia. Many Australians remember wearing these shirts to school as boys. The long-sleeve khaki closed-front shirt is widely regarded as an important historical style, almost a part of a national costume which might include dryzabone raincoats, elastic-sided boots and a Akubra (felt cowboy-style hat).

Popularity

A HBC reader reports that state school uniforms often used C.Fr. (partially closed front) shirts. A Australian reader reports that he does not think that most boys had any strong feelings about the shirts. "I don't think like or dislike came into it. It was the style worn by everyone, so we went along with it. Townsville and Pimlico High schools wore the C.Fr. shirts until 1975 when they were phased out because the company that made them went broke, as did many clothing companies at the time." The shirts went out of style because of economics. They were too expensive to produce. Also, they were superseeded as children and parents took more control of the process. Nowadays, children themselves have a lot to say about their school uniforms, and often take part in the process of selecting the styles, choosing the colours, etc. Students now are even involved in designing their uniforms. A reader reports, "Many schools adopt a school windcheater style jacket. Year twelve students have a special design which they choose, and it alters year after year. I must say that the modern knit uniforms look very attractive, and are brightly coloured. I'll try to send you a photo of the Warwick State High School uniform. It is one of the most colourful and attractive uniforms I've seen, in black, white, gold and red. The kids are immensely proud of it."

Colors

They were made for school wear in both navy blue and khaki. Some are quite destinctivem unlike te uniformly grey shirts worn in England. One school, for example, had a closed-front shirt that is royal blue, with grey for the plackets, collar, pocket tab, and shirt sleeve flash. So it is contrasting colours. There were, however, many other varied color combinations. Usually there was a light and dark color, but the actual color varied widely. These varied colors allowed one to tell at a glance the boys' school.

Material

Closed-front shirts were mostly cotton. A HBC reader reports, "Our school used heavy weight khaki drill, but the neighbouring school used lighter weight headcloth in royal blue."

Styling

The standard closed-front shirt had long sleeves and a flap pocket, but they were also worn with short sleeves and with or without a front pocket--commonly with a button flap. I'm not sure how commonly ties were worn with these shirts. Some were made without collar buttons so were clarly not made to be worn with a tie. Some had collars that were wider than others. Wide collars appear to have been a popular style on the 1940s.

Detailing

Detailing could vary. Sme had shoulder stipes or contrasting colors on the shirt sleeve which also varied in shape.

Other Clothes

In schools, these closed-front shirts were usually worn with short pants and long school socks with caps and hats. A reader reports wearing short trousers in primary school, and long trousers at secondary school. School caps were worn in private schools in Australia, but mostly, we wore hats with brims. Straw hats were popular in my school days. Now, of course, hats are compulsory at schools, and caps are out--because of the skin-cancer problem. Also, they wore short trousers

Conventions

I believe that closed-front shirts were worn open collared, without ties. (HBC has noted, however, New Zealand boys wearing them with ties.) Australia is a very hot country, with temperatures soaring into the 90°F (35°C) plus range. Ties are worn in Southern states, and in private schools, but in Qld, W.A. and the N.T. students don't wear ties. Also, as a matter of interest, in the hotter states, many children still go to school in bare feet, although this is less common now. Fashions change.

School Type

The closed-front shirts were woren at both state schools and private schools. There was no class distinction about the shirt, despite te work short image of the sttyle. In fact, "Churchie" is the only Qeensland school which retains the style, and it is widely considered the top Queensland private school.

Regional Trends

The C.Fr. style was popular in Queensland until replaced by polo front styles--which are very similar with a front placket.

Current Usage

Only a handful of schools have retained the closed-front shirt. Brisbane's Church of England Grammar School ("Churchie") intends to retain the closed-front style because of its history and destinctive look. The shirts now have to be specilly made as they are no longer available in Australian stores. Churchie is a private school and families that can afford the school fees can generally afford the added uniform cost.

The closed-front shirt is still worn by tradesmen in the metal industry. It is, however, very difficult to find even in adult sizes. Most are now made in China and a Australian source says that they do not know how to put the pocket on, presumably because they are made in such small lots. As a result, some of the fronts wind up looking strange. Australia no longer has a national clothing industry. Clothing is imported, primarily from low-cost Asian producers. Australia is celebrating "Festival of the Australian Outback" in 2001, honoring 200 years of Outback ranching and farming. The closed-front shirt regretably will not be used as a garment. Rather the oficial short will be a polp shirt made, printed, and imported from Taiwan. Reportedly the organizers could not find a manufacturer to make the old style shirts.

Created: May 21, 2001
Last updated: October 28, 2001