*** American kilt suits: chronology 1880s








American Kilt Suits: Chronology--the 1880s

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Figure 1.--Here we see a boy wearing what looks like a kilt suit. The pattern is bolder than most of these suits. It was a stereo view dated 1881. It was a Melander Stereoview Photograph--No. 180 "Young America".

The kilt suit continued to be a major fashion for younger boy i the 1880s. We note large numbers of American boys wearing kilt suits throughout the 1880s. We note Frank Bigelow in the early 80s. Note that there was no Scottish elements. This may have been the peak of popularity for these suits. They were one of the most popular outfits for pre-school boys. We see them being worn throughout the country. We note boys from about 3-7 years of age wearing them. They seem to have been as about as popular as dresses for younger boys, although there could have been age differences here. We do not note any change of popularity during the decade. We do note changes in the styling of the suits. Boys in the early 80s wore the same styles as worn in the 1870s with the sack suit jackets generally replacing the cut-away jackets. We see an important developmnt at mid decade. Mrs. Burnett's publication of Little Lord Fauntleroy. It had a mjor impact on boys' fshions, especially in the United States. Until Mrs. Burnetts book, American boy fashions were rather staid. uddenly we see boys weaing gflanboyant outfits. Andthis included the kilt suit. Quite a few kilt suits after 1885 were made as Fauntleroy kilt suits. This was a small black velvet cut-away jacket made with a plaid skirt-kilt. The plaid for these Fauntleroy kilts tended to be brighter than used for the standard kilt suit. We see fewer of the kilt suits with cut-away jackets in the 1880s with the exception of these Fauntleroy kilt suits. They were worn with the fancy Fauntleroy blouses and often large floppy bows. Most kilt suits even during the Fauntleroy era were not done as Fauntleroy kilt suits. But we see boys wearing regular likt suitswith a variety of Fauntleroy items such as floppy bows and lace or ruffled collars. They were worn with a variety of headwear. We do see some such as a Kansas boy. We note kilt suits being worn with striped long sockings in the early 80s, but dark, solid-colored stockings gradually became more common.

Popularity

We note large numbers of American boys wearing kilt suits throughout the 1880s. They were done in several different styles. We note Frank Bigelow in the early 80s, perhaps even the 1870s. The jacket is aittle difficult to identify. Note that there was no Scottish elements to Franl's suit. This may have been the peak of popularity for these suits. They seem to have been as about as popular as dresses for younger boys, although there could have been age differences here. We do not note any change of popularity during the decade.

Styles

Kilt suits during the 1880s were made in many different styles. There were many types of jackets. Boys in the early 80s wore the same styles as worn in the 1870s with the sack suit jackets generally replacing the cut-away jackets. Quite a few kilt suits after 1885 and Mrs. Burnett's publication of Little Lord Fauntleroy were made as Fauntleroy kilt suits. This was a small black vekvet cut-away jacket made with a plaid skirt-kilt. The plaid for these Fauntleroy kilts tended to be brighter than used for the standard kilt suit. We see fewer of the kilt suits with cut-away jackets in the 1880s with the exception of these Fauntleroy kilt suits. Initially we see pin-on lace collars, but Fauntlrroy blouses with large ruffled collars were more popular by the end of the decade. The kilt skirts were also done in a variety of styles abd lengths. The length may relate more to the boys' age than stylistic considerations. Mothers may haven wanted kilt skirts that the boy could wear for several years.

Accompanying Clothes

Kilt suits in the 1880s were worn with a variety of clothing. By the end of the decade we see fancy Fauntleroy blouses and often large floppy bows. They were worn with a variety of headwear. We also see a variety of blouses and collars. We see a Kansas boy with a large, but plain collar. We note kilt suits being worn with striped long sockings in the early 80s, but dark, solid-colored stockings gradually became more common.

Age Trends

They were one of the most popular outfits worn by pre-school boys for nearly three decades. Here we are just talking about age trends during the 1880s. This we only use images that are dated or can reasonably be associated with the 80s. We note boys from about 3-7 years of age wearing them, although we mostly have to estimate ages on the photographic portraits we have archived. Age 6 years is clearly a milestone because those children reaching 6 years of age by September began school. And we do not see boys beginning school in kilt suits, virtually all of the boys have been breeched. We can see that in our 1880s school pages. Of course boys turned 6 after September meaning quite a few boys turned 6 years after September. And well-to-do boys might be tutored at home. Concerning our age estimates, we believe crowd sourcing is useful. And welcome reader opinions on our age estimates. we believe that our age estimates are accurate within a year or so. But we welcome reader assesments if you think we are off the mark. One interesting aspect of the photographic record is that by the 1880s we notice the beginning of changing dditudes toward dresses. some mothers still outfitted their sons in dresses, but other mothers sought out alternatives. And two of the most important in the 80s were Fauntleroy suits and kilt suits. Mothers choosing Fauntleroy suits seem more impressed with fashion than conventions. We also see this emerging with brother in family portraits. Quite often the younger brother wears a dress and the slighly older brother in kilt suits. This seems quite common. The actual ages varied quite a bit from family to family. Our age assements are helped by mail order and store catalog ad copy which by the 1880s bgins to become more detailed and more widely avaolable. Coverage is more complete by the 1890s, but the 1880s catalogs are useful. The catalogs offer some confirmation as sizing is mormally done by chronological ages.

Regional Trends

We boys wearing fashionable kilt suits throughout the country. We believe that fancy clothes in the early-19th century were largely found in the larger northeastern cities. This was not the case by the late-19th century. We see boys in the 1880s wearing outfits like kilt suits throughout the country. And we do not just see them in large cities, but also towns of any size. All kinds of different factors were involved here. One very important factor was the industrialization which was creating vast wealth. Large number of Americans coming from very modest families were achieving real financial success. And we see this affluence reflected in towns all over America. Another factor was the improved comminications brought by the railroads. Major mail order houses were operating. Magazines depicted popular styles and apperns were easily available. This made the lastest in big city fashions available all over the country. Thus boys in the remoteness corners of America could dress aselegabntly as in New York and Philadelphia.

Chronological Trends

Another topic to consider is trends during the decade. Especilly important in the 1880s was the Fauntleroy Craze set off when Mrs. Burnett published Little Lord Fauntleroy (1885). Thus we see a huge difference between the early-80s and the late-80s. Items like large collars, lace and ruffles, and velvet are not nearly as common before Mrs. Burnett's book as after it. This affected the items worn with kilt suits. Notice how plain the boy's kilt suit is here in 1881 (figure 1). Another chronological factor here is that the Fauntleroy suit was so popular that many mothers breeched their sons earlier thn they might have so they could sport a fashionable Faunrleroy suit. Of course another option is to add Fauntleroy styling to a kilt suit.








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Created: 3:46 AM 7/9/2008
Last updated: 8:24 AM 5/24/2016