Figure 1.--Swedish folk costumes are especially popular for girls. The boys were less interested. Thus the girl here wears an elaborate outfit while her little brother wears a modern short pants suit. It is difficult to tell if this is a real traditional style or a modern recreation. The portrait is not dated, but we would guess it was taken about 1930.

The second type of folk costumes are the tradition clothing of the Swedes. Here we are not talking about the medieval Vikings, but the peasant clothing worn in the 18th and 19th centuries. As was the general situation throughout Europe, what is today seen as folk costumes had their origins in folk or peasant costume of the period. Peasant communities were fairly isolated by natural borders, bad roads, limited economic opportunities, and centuries of tradition. Thus rural districts and parishes preserved local costumes and trditions. They were every day wear, but especially elaborate outfits were brought out for special festivities. One auhor suggest that folk costumes became 'uniforms of equality'. By the mid-19th century, major changes were under way in Sweden. The Industrial Revolution was bringing about huge changes in the lives of ordinary individuals. The most obvious changes were in the cities, but gradually reached the countryside as well. One of the changes is that the standard European styles that were once primarily worn in the cities began to be worn in the countryside as well, gradually replacing folk styles. As this ocuured a reaction gradually developed, a kind of ronantic nostalgia for the simpler earlier days. Part of that romanticism was an interest in the disappearing folk costumes. Ironically, a German rather than a Swedish princess played a major role is establishing standards for folk dress or what she called national costume. German (Baden) Princess, Victoria von Baden-Zähringen married Crown Prince Gustavus (1881). They lived in Tullgarn Castle. She became involved in the Nationalist movement. This was in the tradition of European royalty in which a newly married princess was expected to embrace the culture and tradutions of her new country. She decided that it would be a good idea for the female staff at the Castle to wear national costumes. A horticulture student named Märte Palme came to to study the gardens at the Castle. Märte wore a version of the costume that belonged to the region of Vingåker in the province of Södermanland. Märte eventually married the royal gardener's son and moved with him to the province of Dalarna as Mrs. ä Jörgensen. As a result of her experienes, she had developed an interest in Swedish folk costumes. Märta and other interested women formed a Swedish Woman's National Costume Association (1902). Section one of its by-laws states: "The purpose of the association is to bring about a liberation from the domination of foreign fashion among Swedish women through the introduction of a more common use of national costumes". We see similar developments in other European countries. One aspect of this trend was to outfit children in these outfits for portraits. The interest in folk costumes and traditions was by the turn-of-the 20th century a major Swedish concern. The interest spread well beyond rural areas and former peasant farmers. Folk costumes developed into the country's national dress and were worn by adults, especially women, as well as children. Some were concerned with replicating actual folk styles. In many cases, brand new folk styles were actually created.

Viking Era

Sweden aliong with Norway and Denmark were the home of the Vikings. Swedish Vikings, however, did not play a major role in the medieval history of Western Europe like the Danish and Norwegian Vikings who went west and ravaged Scotland, England, Ireland, and France. The Swedish Vikings in contrast went east and played a major role in Russian and Ukranian history, trveling south along the major river systems. The Vikings, however, do not feature in Swedish volk costuming, but appear more popular for American football suporters and storming the U.S. Capitol. This was, however, not the more sedate look that the Swedes interesrted in folk costuming favored.

Peasant Clothing

The second type of folk costumes after the Lapp/Sammi styles are the tradition clothing of the Swedes. Here we are not talking about the medieval Vikings, but the peasant clothing worn in the 18th and 19th centuries--a least fancy version. This was the general situation throughout Europe, what is today seen as folk costumes had their origins in folk or peasant costume of the period. Peasant communities were fairly isolated by natural borders, bad roads, limited economic opportunities, and centuries of tradition. Thus rural districts and parishes preserved local costumes and trditions. They were every day wear, but especially elaborate outfits were brought out for special festivities. One auhor suggest that folk costumes became 'uniforms of equality'. By the mid-19th century, major changes were under way in Sweden. The Industrial Revolution was bringing about huge changes in the lives of ordinary individuals. The most obvious changes were in the cities, but gradually reached the countryside as well. One of the changes is that the standard European styles that were once primarily worn in the cities began to be worn in the countryside as well, gradually replacing folk styles. As this ocuured a reaction gradually developed, a kind of ronantic nostalgia for the simpler earlier days. Part of that romanticism was an interest in the disappearing folk costumes. We do not have lot of information on this, but we see CDVs confirming this developing interest as early as the 1860s. This of course means that the actual interest began even eralier.

Queen Victoria von Baden-Zähringen

Ironically, a German rather than a Swedish princess played a major role is establishing standards for folk dress or what she called national costume. German (Baden) Princess, Victoria von Baden-Zähringen married Crown Prince Gustavus (1881). They lived in Tullgarn Castle. She became involved in the Nationalist movement. This was in the tradition of European royalty in which a newly married princess was expected to embrace the culture and tradutions of her new country. She decided that it would be a good idea for the female staff at the Castle to wear national costumes. This interest in folk costuming had already begun in Sweden. A horticulture student named Märte Palme came to to study the gardens at the Castle. Märte wore a version of the costume that belonged to the region of Vingåker/Österåker in the province of Södermanland. Märte eventually married the royal gardener's son and moved with him to the province of Dalarna as Mrs. Märte Jörgensen. Dalarna in wesrern Sweden is known as a rebelious province and played an important role in Swedish history. As a result of her experienes, she had developed an interest in Swedish folk costumes. Märta and other interested women formed a Swedish Woman's National Costume Association (1902). Section one of its by-laws states: "The purpose of the association is to bring about a liberation from the domination of foreign fashion among Swedish women through the introduction of a more common use of national costumes". We see similar developments in other European countries.

Prevalence

We are not sure how prevaslebnt these folk styles were. The fancy outfit like the little girl here is wearing was clearly for special occassions (figure 1). But there were also more utilitarian folk styles. Abnd we are nit sure how common they were. They would have been wirn mistly in rural areas. After World War II they dusappeared, but beore the War they apear to have been worn to some extrent. We are not sure how commmn this was or the chronological trends.

Childen's Portraits

One aspect of this trend was to outfit children in these outfits for portraits. This at the time wa seen as not only charming, but a kind of nationalist statement. As far we can tell, the Swedish costumes were more ornate than we see in many other countries. The portrait here is a good exmple (figure 1). The interest in folk costumes and traditions was by the turn-of-the 20th century a major Swedish concern. The interest spread well beyond rural areas and former peasant farmers. Folk costumes developed into the country's national dress and were worn by adults, especially women, as well as children, agin mostly the girls. Some of the costume designers were concerned with replicating actually historically accurate folk styles. In many cases, brand new, imaginative folk styles were created--not exactly what was intended.

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Created: 3:03 AM 7/8/2011
Last updated: 3:11 AM 3/5/2023