Figure 1.-- Here we see two of the Stern Brothers kilt suits for younger boys. These are two the suits that look to be made without vests. Notice the different headwear.
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Figure 1.-- Here we see two of the Stern Brothers kilt suits for younger boys. These are two the suits that look to be made without vests. Notice the different headwear. |
We notice quite a variety of Stern's brother's kilt suits in the 1890 catalog. There are no dresses, only kiltsuits. Presenting them for discussion is a little complicated as they are mixed in with kneepants suits and scattered around the page. Unfortunately we do not have the ad copy so we can tell just how Stern Brothers describes them and what size they and age for which the suits were made. We are guessing they would be for boys about 3 to 5 years of age. We do not think they were made in size 6 years as this was when boys began schools, but without the ad copy we cannot be sure,
The Catalog here is from Stern Brothers, No. 66, 1890 Fall & Winter 1891, Fashion Catalog. The Stern Brothers Department Store in New York was founded by the sons of German Jewish immigrants that began selling dry goods in Buffalo, New York. From these humble beginnings the Stern Brothers became an important merchandising family in New York City. The entire family worked in this store, which carried both luxury goods and merchandize for the working classes. It was an elegant store noted for its fashionable clothes. This enterprise was distinguished by its elegant door men in top hats and by the generous and friendly service of the Sterns themselves. It eventually was taken over by Federated Stores and the various Stern stores were converted into Bloomingdakes and Macey stores.
The kiltsuit in 1890 was the height of fassion for younger boys. The original kilt costume Queen Victoria chose for the young princes was the Scottish Highland kilt. Parents in England began dressing their boys in Higland kilts. This was primarily wealthy boys whose parents could aford such extravagances. The style gradually evolved to skirted suits worn by boys who had emerged from dresses,
but whose mothers did not believe they were ready for trousers. The style was most popular in England and Ametica, but was also worn in France and other European countries. The kilt suit continued to be worn by boys into the 20th century, but passed from fashion after the turn-of-the 20th century.
Headwear was commonly worn in the late 19th centyry. Stern Brothers shows younger boys wearing range of headwear with kiltsuits. Here we see a boy wearing what looks rather like a pillbox cap and what looks like a short-brimmed hat with the brim turned up, but is probably a tam (figure 1). We have seen these pillbox caps in the pgotographuc record, but they seem less common than several other styles. There use here is probably hekpful in dating images without orovunance. Another figure wears a tam with a pom. Unfortunately, without the ad copy we do not have details on the headwear nor we know the terms used to describe them. Several of the boys in kiltsuits wear blouses, but the blouses pictured have small or no collars and are much more plain than we have generally noted in the photographic record. All the boys in both kiltsuits and kneepants wear long stockings.
There are no dresses, only kiltsuits. Younger boys in the late 19th century still wore dresses, but note they were not offered by Stern Brothers. We are not sure why. Does this mean mothers bought them in the girls' depsrtment or gfrom their milliners. We do note that from the photographic record that kilt suits were more common than dresses by the 1890s.
We notice quite a variety of Stern's brother's kilt suits in the 1890 catalog. The great variety of kilt suits is well illustrated here. Presenting them for discussion is a little complicated as they are mixed in with kneepants suits and scattered around the page. Unfortunately we do not have the ad copy so we can tell just how Stern Brothers describes them and what size they and age for which the suits were made. We are guessing they would be for boys about 3 to 5 years of age. We do not think they were made in size 6 years as this was when boys began schools, but without the ad copy we cannot be sure.
This kiltsuit has the boy wearing a kind of pillbox capwith a rear streamer. (figure 1). It looks to be a two-piece kiltsuit. The jacket curiously has a single lapel and buttons at the collar. The jacket is heavily detailed with wide piping, both on the jacket edges and lapels and the flap pockets. The jacket is done in mock double-breasted styling. The kilt has a front pannel, but the double breasted buttons of the jacket are not continued on the kilt, unlike the other kilt suit which does have a double row of buttons.
This kiltsuit has the boy wearing what may be a tam, although it is difficult to tell for sure (figure 1). It looks to be a three-piece kiltsuit, although you have to look close to tell. The jacket has a collar, bit is not worn close. Rather the vest (waistcoat) byttons at the collar. The suit is sone is in a bold stripe, however, we have no idea as to the color combination. The vest has a single row of buttons, but the kilt pannel has a double row.
The kiltsuit here is unlike any I have seen in the photographic record. The boy looks to wearing a tam with a pom. The jacket looks to be a Fauntleroy velvet jacket, but it looks to have lapels. Most Fautleroy jackets were lapelless. The jacket is worn open, but notice the tie so the sides do not flap. I have not noticed this before. Also unusuall is the plain collarless blouse. The kilt is the skirted grment that looks most like an actual kilt with a tartan plaid. Notice that there is no front pannel and there are no buttons.
The model here wears what looks like a pillbox cap. The jacket has lapels without knotches and piping with sleeve stripes. He appears to be wearing some kind of dickey or plain buttonless shirt. There is an open-cut vest (waistcoat) with buttons. The plain-colored kilt is heavily pleated without a front pannel.
The model here wears what looks like a smallpillbox cap. The jacket has lapels with knotches. He appears to be wearing some kind of dickey or plain buttonless shirt. There is an V-cut bright plaid vest with buttons. The tartan kilt is pleated without a front pannel.
The numbers of the different styles of kilt suits are mot contiguous. This is because the different garments in the page are numbered in order. Thus the missing numbers were for kneepants suits, coats, and other garments.
Navigate the Boys' Historical Clothing catalog/magazine pages: Navigate the Boys' Historical Clothing Web Site: Navigate the Boys' Historical Clothing Web Site:No. 105
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Created: 11:14 PM 10/3/2004
Last updated: 3:58 AM 10/4/2004