*** Little Lord Fauntleroy suits: American garments jacket types standard lapel jackets








American Little Lord Fauntleroy Jackets: Standard Lapel Jackets

Fauntleroy trim
Figure 1.--This cabinet portrait shows three children dressed up for a family portrait. They are not identified, but presumably are siblings about 4-11 years old. The two boys wear standard lapel sack suits, one single breasted, the other double breasted. They wear identical lace collars and wrist cuffs. The third older child, presumably their sister despite the short hair, wears a dress. The portrait was probably taken in the late-1890s. The portrait was taken by G. H. Wisdom, 318 Elm St., Dallas, Texas. Click on the image for a fuller discussion.

Not all Fauntleroy outfits employed Fauntleroy jackets. We see many boys wearing standard suit jackets made to look like Fauntleroy suits by adding the fancy trim, especially large white collars and commonly matching wrist cuffs. Any jacket could be worn and made to look like Fauntleroy outfits. There were different options here. Mothers could just add a fancy pin-on collar Or she could choose a fancy blouse dripping with lace and ruffled trim and there were many gradients in between these two choices. Many of these jackets could be worn with other collars for an entirely different look. This was useful for boys who could then continue wearing the jacket as he got a little older. These included standard sack suit jackets with lapels. . These were plain suits, but were done with many different variations including lapels and pockets. Here we usually see double-breasted rather than single-breasted jackets, but there was no definitive rule. Suits in the late-19th century often had high-set lapels, thus when covered by a large collar the jackets also look like collar-buttoning jackets. Thus actually identifying a Fauntleroy suit and jacket is a little complicated. The variety of jackets used somewhat expanded the ages at which Fauntleroy outfits were worn. And if the boy had a fancy blouse, the jacket coukd be worn open,looking more like a Fauntleroy jacket. These jackets were not especially desgned as Fauntleroy suit jackets. So the Fauntleroy blouse could easily be replaced with other types of blouses and shirts, giving a more mature look. This enable the mother to use the jacket over a wide age range as well as hand-me-downs. A good example is Harmon King about 1899. Harmon wears a double-breasted jacket which he has buttoned. Another example is Raymond. J.D. Webb about 1900. He also wears a double-breasted jacket with a Fauntleroy blouse, but his jacket is open.

Fauntleroy Trim

Not all Fauntleroy-looking outfits employed Fauntleroy jackets. We see many boys wearing standard suit jackets. these were gthe same jackets that boys were wearing begor yhe Fsuntleroy Craze. They were made to look like Fauntleroy suits by adding the fancy trim, especially large white ruggled collars and also often matching wrist cuffs as well. There were different options here. Mothers could just add a fancy pin-on collar Or she could choose a fancy blouse dripping with ruffled including some with lace trim. You can often tell the diiference because Fauntleroy blouses often had wrist cuffs that matched the collar as can be seen here (figure 1). Fauntleroy collars could be huge and were so flamboyant that any jacket paired with one of these collars took on the Fauntleroy look. There were many gradients in between these two choices. Many of these jackets could be worn with other collars for an entirely different look. This was useful for boys who could then continue wearing the jacket as they got a little older. Other trim included bows and sashes. Floppy bows were especially popular, at least with mothers, and added a splash of color. common and could be huge, but were optional. The boys here are not wearing floppy bows, but many boys at the time did. Sashes on the other hand were not nearly as common.

Standard Suit Jackets

With all the lace, ruffles, ad floppy bows often obcure the fact that boys are not waring Fauntlroy jackers, but standard suit jackers with only Fauntleroy trim added. Standard sack suit jackets with lapels worn with Fauntleroy trim were done in various styles. These were plain suits, but were done with many different variations including lapels and pockets. Here we usually see double-breasted rather than single-breasted jackets, but there was no definitive rule. A good example is Harmon King about 1899. Harmon wears a double-breasted jacket which he has buttoned. Another example is Raymond. J.D. Webb about 1900. He also wears a double-breasted jacket with a Fauntleroy blouse, but his jacket is open. Boys also wore collar-buttoning jackets. These jackets have been stylistic differences. Suits in the late-19th century often had high-set lapels, thus when covered by a large collar the jackets also look like collar-buttoning jackets. Thus actually identifying a Fauntleroy suit and jacket is a little complicated. There were also a range of pocket arrangements.

Ages

The variety of jackets used somewhat expanded the ages at which Fauntleroy outfits were worn. The boys here, for example, cover quite an age range. Generally speaking it was the younger boys wearing Fantlroy jackets and the older boys wearing standard jackets. This was not always the case, only a general rule. A very young boy here has a standard jacket (figure 1). If the boy wore a fancy blouse, the jacket could be kept open, looking more like a Fauntleroy jacket. These standard jackets were not especially desgned as Fauntleroy suit jackets. So the Fauntleroy blouse could easily be replaced with other types of blouses and shirts, giving a more mature look. This enable the mother to use the jacket over a wide age range until the boy outgrew it. And then it could be used for hand-me-downs.

Gender

Suddenly, as aesult of the Fsuntleroy Craze, noys were outfitted in fancier oytfits thanm their sisters. And their was a decided effiort to refrain from adding such huge collars and bows to the girls' dresses. Note hiw plainly the firl here is dressed (figure 1). This mean that the boys woere less likrly to see their satiorial iextravagance as girlish--something that even contemporary mothers would have found difficult to manage. .






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Created: 6:51 AM 9/14/2011
Last updated: 8:00 AM 11/16/2022